Perfumer, Olivier Polge says, "The comet is a strong symbol for Chanel, and I’m thinking in particular of the Comète necklace from the 1932 High Jewellery Collection"
Soft, pleasant, generic, woody-leather. The opening has a little bit of sparking citrus that wakes up this scent. There’s no oud that I can tell. It does have some spice but I don’t get much dirty-earthiness. Has a mature vibe. This may be trying to smell like Oud Wood, but it’s not even 50% there. Performance is very weak with low projection and short-lived longevity.
Sampling 4160 Tuesdays – Fruits of the Tree of Knowledge, a 2014 release that fittingly involves a blend of fruits (cherry, raspberry, lemon, orange) that are contrasted by a mix of rose, violet, and sandalwood, blending the sweet, juicy fruits with a bit of floral sharpness, overall being slightly sweet and green but mostly fruity and a bit floral. It leans a little more sharply floral and feminine that what my personal preferences are, but the quality is nice and I think that many people would enjoy it. In the US, it seems to only be sold at Olfactif, from whom I acquired my sample, at very reasonable brand pricing of $110 of 50ml, and it’s also...
There needs to be more praise for mastic resin in perfume. Also known as lentisque, this resin comes from Pistacia lentiscus, an evergreen shrub native to the Mediterranean basin and in the same family as pistachio trees. The resin has an aroma that I would describe as "green incense," only mildly smoky in scent and flavor (it's considered a spice that's long been used a chewing gum), but more so sweet-verdant, raw-earthy, and with turpentine-coniferous top notes similar to that of frankincense. There is a radiance to it that feels like sunshine to me. I love its use in Sisley's Eau d'Ikar (now repackaged as L'Eau Rêvée D'Ikar), Tom Ford Vert des Bois,...
Perfect cheap casual round the house scent. A bit sweet, a bit fresh, a bit creamy, a bit of depth complexity. A guilty pleasure.
If you like the opening of Delina, you'll like this. On me, this is the rhubarb, lichi, pink pepper, and tea rose opener of Delina made slightly fuzzier and dragged out through the 6+ hour wear time. Like Delina, this accord can pull sour or go bug spray on the wrong day. In my side-by-side test with Delina - I found the Delina unpleasantly astringent and sharp in comparison with Afnan's dupe. Over three wearings, my experience of Souvenir is more predictable on my skin - it's not as likely to go full on bug spray in the way Delina does. And when it does, the bug spray phase is much shorter. I have to be in the mood for this scent profile, then...
This is a modern commercial amber woods fragrance, lacking a soul or a spine, much like its smell-alike Oud Wood. No forest really smells like this. No wood really smells like this. No church pews really smell like this. What does it smell like? Cedary, ambery conspicuous consumption—Veblen goods (a 100ml retails for $345).
This is the problem with geosmin. I am fascinated with the the way it smells, but so seldom does a perfumer use it in such a way that it doesn't overpower a formula. In White Whale, perfumer Christian Alori comes close, so very close, to making it work that it hurts. It hurts me so much that I just can't get past it here. It still ends up being entirely a geosmin affair with all else in the periphery. Some sensation of saltiness and ambergris is suggested, but GEOSMIN. The feeble murmurs of osmanthus whispering through the GEOSMIN. Ionones are present, yet they end up further elevating the GEOSMIN. I just can't get past it. It takes a good hour or so...
This didn't quite meet my expectations. It's not that it isn't attractive, but it just seems a bit hollow, with very little to ground it. I saw that galbanum was listed, and having a voracious appetite for the mean green, I wanted there to be a bit more of that viridescent presence, but the opening is rather muted. There is a pleasant, polleny mimosa accord, and this stage seemed the most promising: it feels pastoral in feel, and granular to the nose. Suggestions of new mown hay, green wheat, and wild grasses follow, but it's so gossamer, I must really bring my nares close to the skin to experience it. I feel like even a more nuanced style such as this...
Dunhill has lots of fragrances but what would be the best of them like scent and performance wise?
I have everything set to recreate a formula for Ani, with the exception of Javanol. I have the following Sandalwood ACs, are any of thse a reasonable sub at very trace levels? Bacdanol Hindanol Polysantol Sandexol
From the NYTimes 5/19/24 Trending scents By Callie Holtermann Reporter on the Styles desk There’s something going on with the way teenage boys smell. It’s become a cliché for adolescents to douse themselves in Axe body spray at the first sign of puberty. But lately, teen and even tween boys with money to spare are growing obsessed with designer fragrances that cost hundreds of dollars. Ask a teenager why he wants a $200 bottle of cologne, and he might tell you he’s “smellmaxxing,” a term for enhancing one’s musk that is spreading on social media. “I started seeing a lot of videos on TikTok and thought, I don’t want to miss out,” said...
..........who would have thought? "The new A*Men Fantasm promises a true amber aromatic gourmand, offering the ultimate "masculine pleasure" with an intensely sensual and additive composition captured in a black signature bottle decorated with a silver star." https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Mugler-Angel-Fantasm-A-Men-Fantasm-20390.html Cheers, Renato
Hello 👋 I had this silly idea to make a tanghulu candied orchid fragrance. I'm a bit stumped about the sugary, ever so slightly caramelized exterior of tanghulu in terms of recreating the smell. I'm considering using bran eo Ethyl Maltol Methyl furanone But these smell way to much like brown Caramel. Tanghulu is not fully Caramelized and has a bit of a raw sugar scent to it. I searched through odor index for sugar, and none give a raw sugar scent. Most are caramelized, burnt, or contain florals. I also found a sugar accord recipe but I don't like it because of its use of vanillin Edit: raw as in uncooked sugar. Pure white uncooked sugar
Hello everyone, I’m working on a chypre type formula. I run into issues because when attempting to add one AC at a time, then evaluating, I very quickly become anosmic, even if I wait a few days or a week and go back to blending. So to me, I can really hardly smell anything when I attempt to evaluate this formula. But I don’t know if it’s that it’s too muddled or I’ve just spent too much time around these chemicals for too long. But just based off the percentages, does anyone have suggestions about what I might consider tweaking to make this more harmonious? Thank you all so much for the help! Boronal - 1.58% Traseolide - 15.77% Violiff (IFF)-...
I recently sampled SMW, but couldn't smell it after a couple of hours. I'm not sure if it has terrible longevity or just that it won't go well with my skin. I am interested in getting a Creed, so which one would you suggest that has good longevity in general.
Most of us are European Mutts in some way or another. I am French and German, with mainly French ancestry. A French surgeon came to American and that's how my people came over here. Do you feel your DNA or lineage take part in your preferences? Do you feel DNA remembers or do you feel that the smells you tend to gravitate to is totally learned? I feel that preferences for one thing or another is a learned behavior but I'm not totally ruling out DNA programming. I mean, if you took a middle eastern man, move him here, never to return and never exposing offspring to Aoud, do you feel a future generation male would gravitate towards Oud based on genetics or...
Fendi is adding a fine fragrance collection to its line-up. The seven-piece range will be available in boutiques and the brand’s e-commerce site from June 20, with each scent priced at $330. The seven-piece collection has been created with the perfumers Anne Flipo, Fanny Bal and Quentin Bisch. https://img.businessoffashion.com/resizer/v2/ZWTR6KOOWRHELIAUAFSMWWEHEE.jpg?auth=179ef447c8fb9203cf081ae6469b4bbb56bae2c9a3da80db1ef7cd7a1fd882d5&width=1440 Deeper dive about the collection, including interviews with various heirs to the Fendi fortune: https://www.elle.com/beauty/makeup-skin-care/a60747564/fendi-new-fragrance-collection/
L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme has a pretty confusing version history, with 4 core versions that I'm aware of. [*]The original 2004 version has neither EDT nor EDP in its name [*]The EDT from 2016 [*]The EDP from 2015 [*]The Eau Extreme from 2005 Now it's not explicitly clear if the new ones map directly to the old ones (2004 -> EDT, Eau Extreme -> EDP), or if the new ones are new formulations that are not supposed to map 1:1 to either the 2004 or the Eau Extreme. Fragrantica lists smoke as a note in both the new ones and not the old ones, but that could totally be illusory. Me personally, I bought the following sample from...
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